There are few undiscovered cities in Europe. Sarajevo is one of them. For all sorts of reasons, mainly war-related, travellers have been reluctant to go there unless, like soldiers and reporters, they had a professional reason to do so. Now the dangers are in the past and Bosnia is as safe for visitors as any country in Europe - safer than most, in my view. And for old hands like myself the most remarkable innovation is the freedom of movement granted by the blessed absence of roadblocks.

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